Year of the OX

According to the Asian calender the Year of 2009 is the Year of the Ox. People born in the Year of the Ox are patient, speak little, and inspire confidence in others. They tend, however, to be eccentric, and bigoted, and they anger easily. They have fierce tempers and although they speak little, when they do they are quite eloquent. Ox people are mentally and physically alert. Generally easy-going, they can be remarkably stubborn, and they hate to fail or be opposed.

The image of Ox is showing a lot in the Japanese everyday life and especially at the shrines:

Geki uma desu

Food is so delicious, different and interesting on this side of the world

Lake Toya and onsens

During our stay in Hokkaido we stayed at Lake Toya and more specific in Hotel Kawanami (http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/~kawanami/kawanamiindex2008-4-10.html). So despite the volcanic interruptions, Toya-ko Onsen town remains a popular spot for soaking. Though this line probably means summer month because during our stay the town looked and felt dead. But it didn't play important role to us as our intension was to relax and experience onsen. Our hotel had an onsen section with three inside onsens and one out side. The best thing about the outside onsen was that it was that the air was cold and water warm and during the night around 20.00 there were fireworks. So there we were relaxing and soaking and watching fireworks. Not bad at all!

During the day we visited Showa Shin-zan which is a volcano that was created from the Uzusan eruption in 1943. While being personal property (so do you a car? no but i have a volcano), it is also appointed as the nation's special natural monument. Also the view of Lake Toya was peaceful. Oh, and almost forgot...the town was full of foot onsens just remember to take your own towel and dip in when ever you feel like it :) How nice and relaxing.

The Streets Were White, Really White

Planning trips is always fun and you have a picture in your head that the sun is shining and moving from place A to B is the easiest thing to do and you just can’t wait to see the postcard scenery.

I had booked a nice ryokan for us in Lake Toya, which is little bit far from Sapporo (almost 3 hours by bus) and the owners seemed nice and had also visited Kemijärvi (how weird is that again). Flying with stand by tickets is always “fun” (read frustrating). A week earlier there were plenty of room at the planes from Haneda to Chitose and because the flight frequency is high we decided just to show up at the airport. Good or bad choice? Hard to say… the lady was kind enough to give us stand by numbers and told all important information forgetting one thing that we found out from a man who kindly told that because of the snowstorm all the flight were cancelled the previous day which means that all the planes today are full. Oh well…we are use to this even though it’s no fun. At least we could enjoy the scenery: Mt Fuji. Our luck again we got seats to the next plane which was better than we expected. Smile in our face we lined up when the announcement came “ due to the bad weather conditions in Sapporo this plane might return to Tokyo, sorry for the inconvenience”. WHAT??

Well it sounds like a bad start but we got to Sapporo and literally the streets were white. Even the runway was totally, totally white. So no wonder why the flights might get cancelled. It seems that the Japanese don’t use salt or any other poison to clear out the snow and the most amazing thing was that people knew how to drive and the traffic was smooth. You might think that in Finland people would no how to behave during winter times but know, the whole traffic is in chaos….

Sapporo is known for its Snow Festival (Yuki Matsuri) that is always held in February. This year it started on the 5th and ended up on the 11th, we got there on the 8th (see how far behind I am with my updates, ups). To be honest the festival might be the only reason why to go to Sapporo in the first place because the city to me looked boring and little ugly as well and I really didn’t get a good impression. One reason might be the bad weather though. It was freezing cold and wet snow was coming down the whole day. The sculptures looked pretty. There are two parts the big snow “statues” and ice-sculptures. As I was kindly informed by Gallagher and Gavin that the food in Hokkaido is the best thing we had some pretty nice lunch at the Nijo Fish Market and some nice ramen at Lake Toya. Thank you for the tips guys!

Mom, Me and Tokyo

Mom got in to Tokyo on the 6th and left on the 13th. Between that time we were able to do quite much and explore Tokyo and Hokkaido. And yes we did walk, walk and walk. Too bad we didn’t have the step meter with us. As some of you know my mom is a teacher in Ikebana and Origami so she already had a preliminary plan for Tokyo, which included Ikebana shops and gardens. She writes blog as well on Ikebana and Japanese culture if you are interested (http://ikebanakalenteri.blogspot.com, in Finnish).

February is a time for Ume, which is the plum tree or Japanese Apricot the tree and the flowers looks similar to cherries (at least to my eye). We spotted some few gardens where to enjoy these beautiful trees and our luck was the sunny and really warm weather. The best garden I thought was the Koishikawa Korakuen. It is rather small but worth it. We also visited the Imperial Palace East Garden, which is a huge place and looks like a fun picnic spot when the grass is little bit greener. If you want to see the plum trees take the entrance of Hirakawa-mon. Finally I had a chance to visit the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, which I also recommend. Oh and then we tasted “the world famous” taiyaki, carp shaped cake (or at least famous in Tokyo if you look at the line in the back street) in Nezu no Taiyaki. So of course as we are curious we lined up as well and the taste was ok nothing spectacular though but at least we tried it. Tokyo has so many faces and the areas differ a lot. Now we also visited an area, which is quiet, cousy and filled with little temples and cemeteries. The temple of Nezu has a nice torii alley and the Yanaka area has narrow and hilly roads with little shops and nice atmosphere.

In the night we enjoyed delicious Japanese food including yakitori at Shinjuku yatai area (close to the station). This little tavern area has maybe 20 little places that have seats for 8-10 people. The food is great and also the atmosphere again. We ended up being there with mom on the night when Japan met Australia in soccer. Good food, Japanese “older” people, sports and beer not a bad combination. And yes I said beer and I even surprised myself when I had beer with my food and it tasted yummy. Though make sure what you order or you might get chicken hearts and skin as well. I recommend chicken liver (I just like liver, sorry) and Japanese vegetables and clams.

The Crew

As you know my purpose in Japan is to complete a fieldwork course and then finish my thesis and graduate on June from Lund University. My master is going to be on Asian studies and more focused on the societies of Japan and Korea. As you might have guessed I’m not the only one here…so it is time to introduce the gang from Lund and Waseda. We were 9 from Lund Jessica (Thailand), Katharine (USA), Gavin (USA), Ronald (Sweden), Cony, Florrie, Cindy and Wendy (China) and me. Most of the time I’ve been spending time with Ronald, Gavin and Katharine. This was the last time I’m going to see them in a long time since I’m not heading to Lund anymore. I love technology…I’m able to defend my thesis on-line!



Time in Tokyo went by so fast but then at the same time I’ll never get tired to this country so for me probably a year would be fast. We had our last lecture and presentations on the 5th of February, which ended with nice soiree provided by Waseda (the food was so good and the drinks as well). I really enjoyed the Waseda’s way of handling things and I cannot thank enough my tutor Vera. Who is too modest to accept Thank You!!!! I actually did ended up doing some interviews and writing as well but nothing is enough when you need to finish your thesis. My feeling is that I’m going to panic sooner or later, sorry to the friends in Finland when you need to listen the endless wining. But I will be alive again after June and will spend so much more time with you!!!

The night continued with drinks and karaoke and yes, I did sing too. Even though I promised not to and as you might also know my voice sucks but I have to admit it was fun. Though not sure what is wrong with me because I always end up going out just before the morning I need to get up really early or something important is going happen. Now the reason was Mom.

Fish market, soya milk, Tokyo Tower

It’s been too long since I’ve written….sorry.

So before telling what’s up now I will go back in time. One of the must to do things in Tokyo is the Tsukiji Fish Market (http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp). This is according to Lonely Planet and me. The guidebook suggests that you might want to be there as early as 05.00 to see the real action, which is the tuna auction. I’ve been there twice last summer and now but never that early and I’ still enjoying the place. Especially the outside market is interesting and sells all kind of things, which are related to food and fish (fishing). It’s fun to watch people and wonder around. There are good looking sushi places as well with huge lines but I’m sure they are worth it (though I’ve never tried one). Lonely Planet also suggest that don’t wear your best shoes and I do agree again as there is fish blood and other interesting things around the ground. I was happily surprised that it doesn’t smell that bad compared to the food markets for example in China. As said the outside market sells other things as well and I tried warm soya milk for 150 yen just because the old man convinced that I would look beautiful after drinking it….still waiting for that to happen. When talking about soya milk the natural one is ok but I would suggest you to taste the one that has a green tea flavor. One of the Japanese girls that I know told me that it helps you skin to look fresh and helps you to reduce your weight…I have tried to obey this advice but again nothing has happened.

Tokyo Tower “the biggest tourist trap in Tokyo” is 333 m tall. It looks like Eiffel Tower but it is 9 meters taller than it’s relative in Paris. There are two observatory decks, which are quite costly but the view is pretty nice. During clear weather you may spot Mount Fuji as we did but already at noon it vanished. If I remember correctly on Thursdays there is a jazz concert during the evening and you may enjoy the concert and night view with the same time with the same time. So, that is still on my “To do” list. There are also other options to see Tokyo through bird’s eyes. Some tall office buildings have observatory desks as well…I feel I’m writing a guidebook, which is not good. But it’s about the attractions in Tokyo…cannot help it.

Finland got killed by Japan

Today the 4th of February Japan showed how to play soccer. There were some amazing players on the field and the foot work was nice and fun to watch. Unfortunately the learning team was Finland and the final score was 5-1 to Japan....I have to admid that I have never seen a game with such many goals.

But Finland had some good plays and yes they even did have the possession of the ball once in a while. Towards the end Japanese crowd were laughing to our goalie. I felt little bad because it was the first game where he started in the national level.

There was no doubt who is the favorite among Japanese lady soccer fans....and here he comes... SHUNSUKE NAKAMURA a player for Celtic and he first Japanese player to score in the Champions League and the second Asian player to do so. He also has a long career with the national team. But the girls went crazy...

I was debating for a long if I should go to the game or not because it seemed so hard to get tickets. The online stores are all in Japanese and Lawson should sell tickets but the old men didn't know how to help me even though I had a prochure with me. In the end I decided that I will just go to the stadium and hopefully I will be lucky enough the get one. And yes it did work. If the games are not sold out you may purchase your ticket in front of the stadium. The prices were from 2000-7000 yen.

Tokyo National Stadium has been in use for almost 50 years and it was also a home for the Olympics in 1964. It's located in Tokyo pretty close to Harajuku and Meiji Shrine which is quite nice and convinient. There are seats for 60 000 people. Today there were little over 35 000 people. Quite impressive for me at least...

Setsubun

On February 3rd (today) a traditional event called Setsubun is practices in Japan. On this day people practice a ceremony called Mamemaki (bean-throwing) at temples, shrines and at home to expel demons which are concidered as a symbol of misfortune and invite fortune. At the same time shouting "Oni wa soto, Fuku wa uchi!" (Devils out, happiness in). Afterwards you should pick up and eat the number of beans, which corresponds to your age.

I founded this really intresting and as good luck is always needed I wanted to try this tradition and our university gave out little bean-bags as well. But where should I throw the beans to? Home: to the floor... At the temple: no clue. I went to the shrine close to our campus and was trying to figure out what is happening but none of the people were throwing beans. So I did'nt dare to throw out any beans which was I guess better because I noticed that my little bag didn't have the number of beans which would correspond my age....how embaricing. Am I too old to study? I guess the age crisis is hitting me from outside....

So now I'm hoping that I will not face any demons soon....Wish me good luck!

Lady in Meiji

On the other side of the bridge

In Japan traditions and modern culture are a match. Harajuku area and Meiji Shrine are really close together and still the atmosphere and life changes rapidly. From the bridge where the Harajuku Girls are it takes only 10 minutes to the Meiji Shrine.

So here is Meiji Shrine how I saw it today:

PS. If you wish to know or see more let me know

People watching in Harajuku

You might know that I love (yes i like a lot) photographing people.
You also might know why Harajuku is famous around the world.
(I briefly mentioned in the earlier story...)

So here is Harajuku how I saw it today 1.2.2009:

PS. If you wish to know or see more let me know

Kahvila Välipala

Today I saw some interesting mugs...

There is a brand called Moi Mug here in Japan!!
http://global.gmarket.co.kr/challenge/neo_goods/zoom_in.asp?goodscode=153690100&gubun=Gd

Inside a cup there is a text "Kahvila, Välipala" ("cafe snack") and outside you may find a picture and text.

There are 6 different kind:
mehiläinen (bee)
hevonen (horse)
lintu (bird)
leppäkerttu (ladybird)
lammas (sheep)
norsu (elephant)

I think it is interesting how much Finnish is used here. It would be interesting to know the story behind this Moi Mug or Ehkä Söpö store (mentioned in the Shopping section)

PS. I just noticed that the brand is Korean...I think...

Sunday Morning

I'm trying to wake up early during my stay here so I could explore Tokyo during the morning and then return home and study. It is getting dark already around 17.00 and I do enjoy the city better when the sun is shining but of course there are places that you need to see during the night time as well though Asakusa is not one of them.

So it is Sunday morning and after 09.00 I was headig towards Asakusa area which is also a home of Tokyo's oldest temple, Sensoji Temple (founded in the 7th century). Asakusa is full of life and it is fun to wonder around and gett lost in the side streets and back alleys (actually you're never lost here because almost every corner has an information map). For breakfast or I could say for lunch I had sembei, a rice cracker that you need to taste in this area.t Sembeis are hand-grilled over charcoal fire and the cost is 50 yen/ each. The taste...it was good but remember that they are rather small. Not really healthy lunch either and they were just crackers.

I have visited Asakusa area before and already then (in my opinion) the place was too touristic and everything is sold here. Also I have also considered Asakusa area only as a temple area but it is much more than that. As Edo rose, Asakusa emerged as a bustling commercial centre and entertainment area. For example one of the street was full of TV screens and little beting boxes and only men were walking around. Also there were big adds on adult entertainment places and plenty of people staring at them. Site that (again in my opinion) is hardly ever seen in Japan in public I mean.

After 10 minute walk I was able to find Kappabashi-dori which is the country's largest wholesale kitchenware and restaurant-supply district. But unfortunately most of the stores were closed because of Sunday. Need to go back then... I continued my walk towards Nihombashi and walked through Asakusa bashi which was full of shops with all kind of craft shops.

Some culture today and tomorrow if the weather permits I will "clime" the Tokyo Tower....

Shopping

You may find some intresting things in Japan and I'm sure you'll find a lot of stuff that you don't even need. There are plenty of 100 yen shops around that sell everything from miso soup to shirts. So all the items in these store are 100 yen + plus 5 % consumption tax. And if you feel always cold (like me) you may buy "little bags" that warm you up...

Some shopping items.A pen holder for your notebook (800 yen), a purse from Roppongi Hills

Sake bottles from Tsukiji market, luxury goods from Roppongi Hills

Some nice stores or just interesting ones:
www.balstokyo.com/en/
www.asics.co.jp/onitsukatiger/
www.rakuten.co.jp/naturalvintage/
www.muji.net/store/
www.yaechika.com/shop_detail/sp225/sp225.html
www.earth1999.jp/
www.bape.com/
head-porter.org/home.htm
lamp-harajuku.com/

Pretty good marketing...So let's go shopping!!!